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Syclone #2231

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  • Syclone #2231

    So a few weeks ago, almost a month now, I picked up Syclone 2231 to further complete my collection of trucks. Got a 92 and 93 Typhoon as well, just need a Sonoma GT to complete the set. Anyway, its a beautiful truck and just like any 27 year old vehicle with 180,000 miles on it, its got some issues. Thankfully not too many and most are just simple stuff. I haven't looked up the full history of the truck yet but I got it from Maryland and before that it was in Florida, I think. Explains the lack of major rust. It has the normal rusty spots where the loose cladding has been rubbing the paint thin.

    Other than the paint issues, the other major problems with it involve the engine and suspension.

    Starting with the suspension cause that's actually easy... It has 3" lowering blocks and lowering springs. And the front torsion keys are almost turned down to nothing. I fixed the front by raising it back up an inch and you honestly can't tell its not as low now. Looks level where it had a rake. I think it looks better this way. However, it's still too low to me. I think I'm going to swap the 3" blocks for 1" blocks since it has lowering springs and turn the front up to match the new rear height. Yes, it looks good how it sits, but it rides like crap. I'm constantly hitting the rear axle on the frame. And I've already broken both front fender cladding pieces hitting a bump on the highway. It's got super wide tires on it. 10.5 in the front and 13 in the back. I had to add 1" spacers to the front to stop it from rubbing on the frame at full lock. As a result, the tires stick out past the cladding by a little bit. As good as the corvette wheels are, I might ditch them and go back to stock wheels. Or maybe C5 wheels that aren't as wide. Eitherway, truck is actually going to be lifted back up a bit.

    It has the shocks that are meant to be coil overs but are just shocks at the moment. Thinking of getting the rest of the pieces to make it a full coil over setup front and rear. Another bridge to cross later.

    As for the engine. It runs down the road nicely. Doesn't buck. Throws you in the seat whenever you stomp on it. So what's the issue? Well, the knock sensor is going nuts. Either that or there is something bad in the engine. It see's knocking almost constantly when its running. And at idle it has a horrible miss and will sometimes die. I found a few loose plug wires and an almost broken coil pack wire. Replaced both and it helped a lot and no longer died at idle. But still misses and the knock sensor keeps on counting. The problem with that is it's pulling timing. By a lot. I've seen it pull almost 27 degree's of timing. That's horrible. And explains why my rust bucket typhoon pulls harder. Also would explain the shitty boost launching and almost 15 second passes at the track when I went.

    I'm going to do a full tune up on it and replace the TB with the one from my typhoon. I recently rebuilt the typhoon's TB and it was a night and day thing. All new sensors, cleaned it, and re-adjusted the butterfly valves. It went from a shaky idle that made the tach dance and constantly stalling to a rock solid idle and loads of power. So, going to put that on the syclone and the one off the syclone will get the same treatment in due time and go on the typhoon. Reason I'm doing it this way is the typhoon has a blown transfercase and wont be moving anytime soon.

    Figure the new TB and tune up will help a lot of things. Next thing is I've got a set of new stock injectors. Can't imagine 180,000 miles of fuel have been kind to the ones in there.

    Also going to replace the knock sensor. Might relocate it as well. It has a but connector on the sensor wire meaning its been worked on before.

    If that doesn't stop the knocking I'll have to dive deeper. I'm open to any suggestions what could be causing the constant knocking. I don't hear any rattling or knocking sound from the engine. And like I said, at highway speeds it runs fine with no skipping or surging. But still see's knock like crazy.



    Once i get the truck running right and seems there's no mechanical issues. Then comes the fun part. I've already got a turbotweak chip, 60# injectors, a 60-1 turbo with a 3" downpipe (has a 3" cat back now), L35 heads, a 52mm TB, and a few other goodies. If it can get into the deep 11's on just pump gas I'll be happy with it. With that setup, shouldn't be a problem. As for the small stuff, it's getting a forged wastegate, aux trans cooler, and a 255 fuel pump.


    Oh and in the next few weeks I'll be taking all the cladding off and the truck will be off to a body shop to have all the paint issues corrected. Also going to get the cladding re-done in a dark argent grey color. Boarder line black, but more grey. I think it'll look better than the black on black it is now. Will also be repairing all of the broken bits I find on the cladding while its off.


    So that's all I got for this opening post. I'll add pictures and stories as I go. Hope you follow along. Now for a few pictures of the truck!


    A storm is coming... Prob my favorite picture of this truck so far Syclone meet Typhoon 1. Typhoon 2 is hiding in the garage atm.
    Alex
    91 Syclone #2231
    92 Typhoon #1336
    93 Typhoon #1691

  • #2
    so 4 month update. I did get it to the drag strip before they closed for the winter and my best run was a 14.39. So its not in top shape, but some of that slowness was me not launching it right. Looking back I was doing a 0psi launch. I've done more practicing and can now jump it off the line at a stop light around 8psi. The other day I took off at 10psi and did a 4 wheel sideways launch. The back wheels like to break loose and start spinning while the fronts are locked. Going to need to adjust the drum brakes or look into getting a disc conversion.

    Other than that I replaced the whole TB using the rebuilt one from my typhoon to see if that would help with the ruff idle and stalling. It did not. I still need to install the tune up kit. The last data log I did showed a lot of know despite there being no audible knock or pinging. I did find that the knock sensor has been messed with as the wire was cut and re-crimped sometime in the past. I have a new fuel pump, injectors, and filter to be installed and we'll see if that helps.

    There is an aftermarket A/F gauge installed but it is some off brand chinese one and I'm not sure how much I can trust it as it reads about 10:1 when idle and i've seen it drop off the gauge when accelerating or cruising. I have a new AEF gauge to install which is what I run in the typhoon. I trust that one to be much more accurate.

    I also figured out my cam. As I said, once the truck is running right it's getting L35 heads and a 60-1 turbo. I now have a custom grind cam from comp cam's to go with it.

    Biggest hang up is that its the 3rd car in line right now. My STi engine swap is taking longer than I expected and once its done I plan on doing the lift and rebuild of my jeep. Then its the syclone's turn. Other good news is i got an engine for my 93 typhoon which is now the 4th car in line. I'll try and remember to update this more regularly as I start working on it.
    Alex
    91 Syclone #2231
    92 Typhoon #1336
    93 Typhoon #1691

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    • #3
      The AFR gauge may be working correctly. You should work on this as soon as you are able. Try the new AFR gauge to verify. It should not be driven if that is the correct AFR. Fuel is getting into the oil if that is the actual AFR and the oil will not lubricate properly when diluted. But AFR is a very important problem.

      Knock can be difficult to find. It may be from a real knock but could be a false knock. I have had a false knock on trucks before. And it could come from a rattle or a metal object hitting the engine or some other object. Usually fairly close to the knock sensor. Once I found the fuel line attachment at the back of the head loose causing the false knock.

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      • #4
        If you do replace the knock sensor, it can be a real pain to get out. The hex surface is tin, and can crush if you really start to put force on it. Try to soak the threads down first, which is gonna be tough, cause its buried back in there. Also remember when you put a new one in, they have a specific torque rating. If i remember its very low, like 18 ft/lbs.
        -Brandon

        Why is EVERYBODY racing on low boost?

        Comment


        • #5
          Update time!!! This past weekend i went after it like it owed me money. I was determined to get her running right. I had sourced a set of new stock injectors, a turbotweak 3-bar stock injector chip, new AFPR, new distributor cap and rotor, wires, plugs, knock sensor, gaskets, and more. I decided that with all the fuel upgrades the best way to go about this was to take the upper intake off. Means the intercooler and that are out of the way and makes it so much easier to work on everything.

          Once that was off getting to the knock sensor was really easy. So I replaced that. I got the fuel rail off to clean. and also took the bracket for the map, egr, and coil off.

          During all this is when I found my distributor cap was held on by zip ties!!! It was loose as hell and both screws were stripped. No wonder it had random skipping issues.

          So, got that mess pulled out with the old wires. The old plugs were rather rusty and stuck but otherwise clean. They were coated in oil and only showed what I already knew, that i was running very rich.

          so now that everything was out, time to clean. Bunch of random grease, grim, and shit just there. Got it cleaned up and looking a lot better.

          Ok, so now to start putting it all back together. New injectors and the old rail went in with only a little fuse. I dug out one of my renzfab brackets for the map and coil. I deleted the EGR stuff. Got the new plugs in and wires run up to the distributor. Now for the distributor... I just got a set of long #6 screws and some wing nuts and used that to tighten it down. No worries of it stripping or coming loose now. Got the intake back on with new gaskets, and put the inter cooler back. Looks good and I'm much happier. Time for the new chip...


          This is when i find the cherry on top. the "stock" truck has a JET chip in it. I've heard nothing but bad things about this particular chip. And its a California C.A.R.B. chip to boot. With the loose distributor, bad fuel pressure regulator (oh, forgot to mention when i checked earlier in the week i was getting about 60psi to the rails with the vac line off), worn plugs, and everything else, this chip was probably just making it all worse.

          So now it has a nice TT chip in it. Once I got the wires for the plugs in the right place it fired right up and is purring like a kitten. I need to reset timing because who ever last did this moved the distributor one notch counterclockwise. I set the plug wires based on the manual where the #1 is in the 6 o'clock position but it has been rotated so far that cylinder 6 is now in the 6 o'clock. Anyway, best bet is to reset the timing and start at zero again. Which is the next big thing I'll be doing soon as my new harmonic balancer gets here. For now she's running 10x better and doesn't stall at traffic lights anymore. I still need to tweak the chip a bit cause she's still running a little rich at idle and seems to bog at wot. I know i'll have to tweak again with the timing reset but for now i can at least drive her to work and back in traffic without worrying about killing the battery having to start it every 10 minutes.

          Alex
          91 Syclone #2231
          92 Typhoon #1336
          93 Typhoon #1691

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