Because I've replaced at least a couple dozen sets of the metal stock oil cooler lines over the years, I know how to do it. The one on the engine can be fussy, or sometimes it goes fairly well. The trick is to realize that it comes out over the fender, from the top. But sometimes the "block" on the end that connects to the on-block adapter just doesn't want to come out between the diff and the engine mount. Seems really tight, and can be aggravating.
After fighting the thing in my DD today for about 45 minutes (and I have a lift) I had an epiphany: What if the 14 year old rubber mounts had sagged, decreasing the clearance between the diff and the pan rail? ? I put my bottle jack under the torque converter cover and lifted the engine about 1/2" before the frame started to rise too. The lines came right out, and the new ones went right in.
Sometimes one has to be smarter than the problem. Maybe this will help someone in the future. Cheers.
DaveP
2/04/2018
After fighting the thing in my DD today for about 45 minutes (and I have a lift) I had an epiphany: What if the 14 year old rubber mounts had sagged, decreasing the clearance between the diff and the pan rail? ? I put my bottle jack under the torque converter cover and lifted the engine about 1/2" before the frame started to rise too. The lines came right out, and the new ones went right in.
Sometimes one has to be smarter than the problem. Maybe this will help someone in the future. Cheers.
DaveP
2/04/2018
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