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Replacing STOCK motor mounts in a STOCK Typhoon. Ideas?

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  • Replacing STOCK motor mounts in a STOCK Typhoon. Ideas?

    I've been putting this off for months. I'm worried I'm going to break the transmission case if I don't get on this and put new mounts in the truck. I've had this 93 for 20 years, and it is amazingly original and un-dorked-with. The engine has never been out, and little has been molested on it. I'd like to keep it that way. I guess it's my NCRS thinking, I just have a problem taking things apart that have never been apart before. A vehicle is original only once.

    I've changed the mounts in a regular 4X4 S-series. As per the factory manual, It requires jacking the body off the frame to get the engine high enough to get to the mount-to-block bolts. BUT on a SyTy the exhaust manifold is in front of the mount blocking any access from the front. The supplement makes no mention of how to do a mount replacement. I'm going with stock rubber mounts.

    I'm contemplating going in from the side through the wheel housing, and probably removing the driver side exhaust manifold even though its never been off. Will also have to remove the PS pump which has never been off either. I can use the opportunity to install the Astro shaft I have for the truck. I may still have to jack the body up, which is no biggie, but more bolts get molested. I want to do the passenger side too, but the turbo and downpipe are over there. I haven't even thought about that side yet.

    Has anyone DONE this project? How did you do it? Any thoughts? I did mounts in a Syclone about a year ago. Because the transmission was out for other work, I just pulled the engine to do the mounts. Ended up doing bearings, and about two weeks of cleaning once the engine was out. I really DON'T want this task to balloon into "while I'm in there" and not get done for 5 months, not to mention I don't want to "restore" this Ty. I like originality.

    Thanks for any insight.

  • #2
    Did mine without jacking the body or removing anything. Was with a 4 post lift. Would not attempt it again. Used the JTR 2.8 mounts which requires swapping both the frame and the motor pads, if that makes a big difference.

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    • #3
      I did this today. Stock replacement mounts in a stock Typhoon. Not a quick project at all. I did the mounts on my 4X4 DD without a lift, but now that I have one it really helped. I did not remove the exhaust manifolds. They aren't in the way at all.I also didn't remove the lower CCHE, I was able to access the through bolts from under the car.

      Remove crossover tube, air cleaner.
      Remove upper fan shroud to remove fan. (So when you lift the body, the fan doesn't hit the lower shroud).
      Remove cruise control.
      Remove grill.
      Remove two core support to frame bolts.
      Remove bolt in clamp on shock tower for brake lines.
      Under car, remove front and middle body mount bolts.
      Jack body up at the front mounts until a 2/4 block fits on the mount on both sides. Remove the jack.
      Remove front of prop shaft (for access), torque converter cover, starter motor.
      Remove both side mount through bolts.
      Remove front wheels and inner wheel-housings. (I set the truck down on 4X4 blocks under the ball joints so jack stands don't get in the way. Remember I'm on a 4-post lift).
      Lift engine as far as possible without stressing anything. A/C hoses in particular. I used my cherry-picker, and a piece of 10MM Spectra line to rig the lift through the eyes. Spectra is more-better than chain to rig the lifting eyes.
      I removed the steering shaft for access, and because I have an Astro shaft for it anyway.
      Remove the mounts. I went in through the wheel housings for most of them. The old mounts were sheared and easy to remove. To install the new mount lower bolt is a challenge. Most sockets in my drawer were too long or too short. The mount pad is in the way. I got it done, but it required patience.

      I'm an old fart now, and it takes me time to get stuff done. This was a full day project. But it's done.

      When I got the upper fan shroud off, I reached down and tried to turn the balancer ring by hand. It moved very easily. So that's tomorrows project: Change the balancer, do some cleaning, and put it back together. 2 days total. Coolness.
      Last edited by DaveP; 03-08-2018, 12:32 AM.

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      • #4
        Since I have to replace my front diff...when I eventually get to it, Im going to make the dive and just go ahead and do solids in mine. Figure no better time to do them then while they are readily accessible with the diff out.

        Regardless, good writeup Dave. Thanks for the info for future how-to.
        --------------------------------
        adam
        Syclone #0237
        ISTR Executive Director, Secretary
        SyTyRegistry.com

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        • #5
          The diff has little to do with accessing the motor mounts. Changing the frame pads requires fastener access through the holes the lower control arms are in. I know guys have changed the pads without removing the lower control arms, but I don't see how. I know I don't have that level of patience. I had the pads off my bare 4X4 frame I prepared for my AWD Blazer years ago. It was fussy enough doing it the "easy" way.

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          • #6
            Dave Glad to have Your posts Back again. I lost your Number on my Old phone Please PM glad your writing material Again!

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            • #7
              The jtr 2.8 made a huge difference ( motor is about a inch higher )along with a new ac delco tranny mount what a major difference it chirps the tires now when it shifts .

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              • #8
                Well, I get to do it again. The cheap-ass over the counter mounts broke the first time I got on it to pull ahead of traffic. Didn't last 500 miles. Jeff Scott gave me a set of his bolt-in solids during my last visit. Those are going in this time. I don't care if the shit vibrates or not.

                I'd do the 2.8 JTR thing too, but the solids will be easier. I'm almost to the point IDGAF about this POS any more. It breaks now every time I drive it. It shakes on the highway. The f'ing rear window squeak drives me nuts. The paint is peeling. The driver seat foam is compressed and I feel the springs in my ass and I'm only 145 lbs. I'm ready to throw in the towel and get a Cayenne.

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                • #9
                  Well I spent the weekend putting the solid mounts in it. What a royal PITA. Even though I have a lift, with the engine hoist hooked up, the lift has to be down. Bonus: While it was easy to access the plugs I pulled them, checked compression (good), and ohmed out the wires. #6 was bad. The wires had "3Q96" (third quarter, 1996) for a date. I haven't changed them since we first got it in Fall 97. Stuff just doesn't last like it used to. So I found the cause of the rough idle too, and a good thing. Read on.

                  One comment: I've always had a hunch that there would be a noticeable increase in Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) transmitted to the passenger compartment after the installation of solid mounts. For almost 20 years on .net, the response was "nope." "No difference". "Can't tell a thing", etc. BULLSHIT! This thing now has a low frequency NVH at idle in gear that is REALLY objectionable in a bone-stock, otherwise fairly quiet original Ty. The guys that said "no difference" are wrong. They wouldn't recognize increased NVH if they read a book on it. It kind of goes away if I put it in neutral while waiting for a light. I did that for 10 years in my El Camino that had too much cam for a DD automatic big block. I'll begin to do it again.

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                  • #10
                    Were the stock style motor mounts that failed, OEM GM or aftermarket?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dgoodhue View Post
                      Were the stock style motor mounts that failed, OEM GM or aftermarket?
                      Hi Dave:

                      When Chuck and I purchased this truck in 1997, I replaced the original mounts with GM OEM. 20 years later, the driver side had sheared. Wanting to avoid any NVH, I researched available rubber replacement mounts. The GM was no longer available, and not in any dealer stock, nor VPI. I knew Energy Suspension just melted. All I could get were an "Anchor" brand OE-style replacement. Didn't last a week and they sheared.

                      @Adam R: I looked at the mount pad attachments while I was under there. You are correct, and I was mistaken. The pad bolts ARE accessible with the diff removed. I can't really see the ones on the driver side above the pumpkin, but they are definitely not inside the frame rail like I thought they were. Maybe I was thinking of 2WD that are through the suspension pockets, but I was incorrect for our trucks.. Cheers.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DaveP View Post
                        One comment: I've always had a hunch that there would be a noticeable increase in Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) transmitted to the passenger compartment after the installation of solid mounts. For almost 20 years on .net, the response was "nope." "No difference". "Can't tell a thing", etc. BULLSHIT! This thing now has a low frequency NVH at idle in gear that is REALLY objectionable in a bone-stock, otherwise fairly quiet original Ty. The guys that said "no difference" are wrong. They wouldn't recognize increased NVH if they read a book on it. It kind of goes away if I put it in neutral while waiting for a light. I did that for 10 years in my El Camino that had too much cam for a DD automatic big block. I'll begin to do it again.
                        It used to be (and probably still is) commonplace on GNs to change the drivers side motor mount to a solid or poly mount, but keep the passenger side OEM rubber. The thought being that the drivers side is the failure prone one because it lifts, which is of course why the turnbuckles and ratchet straps and other silliness get used on that side. The passenger side on the other hand gets compressed when you stab the throttle and lifts only when you let off.

                        It was thought to be a compromise for the harshness of changing both to solid mounts.

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