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  • Engine doesn't always crank

    Several years ago I had a deep well trans oil pan installed with a filter change. Ever since I have problems starting the engine 7 out of 10 times it will click like a bad battery or starter motor. have had both replaced and still having issues. It always eventually starts after much embarrassment in parking lots and offers to jump it. Is there any relationship to a possible stretched trans shift cable? I have lost my reverse lockout also, mechanic says its the shifter needs to be replaced but good luck with that. Button on shifter goes down but never comes back up until shifted to Park again. Just nuisance problems but thought I'd throw it out in case someone has some insight! Love this site and all the know how you guys have. Bill (ClassicTy)

  • #2
    It almost sounds as if the shifter cable bracket has gotten bent. It doesnt take much to throw it out of alignment and it wont properly get into gear or go into park....and it makes sense if youve changed the pan.

    If you look on the driver side of the pan next to the propshaft, there is a bracket that cable sits in (bracket has 2 bolts that go into the pan). With a set of pliers you can gently bend the bracket forward or backwards and change the position of the cable.

    Definitely a starting point to look at that doesnt cost anything to test.

    As far as cable stretching, yes it does happen....however, they arent very hard to replace and are available. http://www.sportmachines.net/store/d...ble-700r4.html
    --------------------------------
    adam
    Syclone #0237
    ISTR Executive Director, Secretary
    SyTyRegistry.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by ClassicTy View Post
      Several years ago I had a deep well trans oil pan installed with a filter change. Ever since I have problems starting the engine 7 out of 10 times it will click like a bad battery or starter motor. have had both replaced and still having issues. It always eventually starts after much embarrassment in parking lots and offers to jump it. Is there any relationship to a possible stretched trans shift cable? I have lost my reverse lockout also, mechanic says its the shifter needs to be replaced but good luck with that. Button on shifter goes down but never comes back up until shifted to Park again. Just nuisance problems but thought I'd throw it out in case someone has some insight! Love this site and all the know how you guys have. Bill (ClassicTy)
      Bill,
      Welcome. I read your post. Something comes to my mind as I read your specific problems, both of them: (shifter cable and starting issue). If an engine is not grounded properly or has a bad ground the shifter cable can become the only ground path. If this happens shifter cables stretch due to the current load flowing to ground thru the cable itself it can heat up. The shifter cable covering can melt and other issues like hard starting. Check that your grounds are in place and make some if they are not.
      ____________________
      Keith

      SY-1193
      TY-1725

      Comment


      • #4
        Adam, Keith,
        Thanks for the info. I will look into both these issues and let you know what I find. Thanks. You guys are great!!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Sounds like two problems. The starter malfunction is the clickies, not a shift cable adjustment. The OP needs to install a purple wire helper solenoid or relay. I've probably now installed over 25 of these relays, and not a single truck I did it to ever clicked again.
          The button not popping up, and the interlock problem IS a shift cable or adjustment. I doubt the shifter itself needs to be replaced.
          Last edited by DaveP; 07-23-2018, 06:19 PM.

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          • #6
            Considering this "purple wire" thing has been a thing on these trucks since forever... I can't believe there's not a "how to" sticky, nothing on sytyarchives, nothing on How Tune... Searching .net, you get 12 pages of threads, and after not finding anything useful after 4 pages, I gave up. I remember reading one of Dave's posts eons ago about using a relay, but I didn't have the problem at the time, and now I can't find that thread either. Is there a proper write up for this anywhere?

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            • #7
              I run this kit on both my tys its an easy install just get power from the block on the firewall it looks professional when installed Painless make some of the best harnesses money can buy

              https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30202

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Typhoon0627 View Post
                Considering this "purple wire" thing has been a thing on these trucks since forever... I can't believe there's not a "how to" sticky,............I remember reading one of Dave's posts eons ago about using a relay, but I didn't have the problem at the time........... Is there a proper write up for this anywhere?
                Give me a few days, mostly to take pics of my Ty, and possibly find some pics in files from my old computer that aren't on this one that I use for interwebs, and I'll write it up. There are several ways to do it. For years I used a simple "Bosch type" cube relay, but on more recent installs I've been using a relay that is just like the other relays on the firewall. I have the special crimpers and terminals, and have harvested about 20 relays, mounting brackets, and connector blocks from junk-yarding. Makes for a REALLY clean, stock appearing install. I put it right next to the boost relay, so three are all in a row, and look the same. Most peeps will have to use the Bosch relay because they don't have the special chit to do it this way.

                The fussiest part is running the new "purple" (it can be any color you wish) wire, and attaching it to the starter. With the stock starter there's no choice other than drop the front of the prop shaft, drop the torque converter cover, then the starter. I put a piece of heat reflective sleeve on the new wire to protect it from the down pipe and manifold above it. You have to find the old wire in the harness behind the engine, or run it up to the relay location. Get B+ power from the power stud, and use one of the power stud mounting screws for the ground.

                For a Bosch Relay, here's the connections:

                #87 = To B+ Power stud. (If you want to be really trick, use a 6" piece of #14 fuse link wire for this, and the circuit is protected if the wire burns on the down pipe).
                #30 = To Starter little terminal. Use at least #12 AWG #10 preferred. Put heat sleeve on this wire in vicinity of the down pipe and manifold.
                #86 = Old purple wire that comes from key switch. (If this wire is really toasted, open the loom over the brake booster, find the 12 ga purple wire and splice to it there).
                #85 = Ground. Use the mounting screw for the relay, or one of the mounting screws on the power stud.

                I'll add some pics over the next few days.

                DaveP
                8 / 16 / 2018

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by DaveP View Post

                  Give me a few days, mostly to take pics of my Ty, and possibly find some pics in files from my old computer that aren't on this one that I use for interwebs, and I'll write it up. There are several ways to do it. For years I used a simple "Bosch type" cube relay, but on more recent installs I've been using a relay that is just like the other relays on the firewall. I have the special crimpers and terminals, and have harvested about 20 relays, mounting brackets, and connector blocks from junk-yarding. Makes for a REALLY clean, stock appearing install. I put it right next to the boost relay, so three are all in a row, and look the same. Most peeps will have to use the Bosch relay because they don't have the special chit to do it this way.

                  The fussiest part is running the new "purple" (it can be any color you wish) wire, and attaching it to the starter. With the stock starter there's no choice other than drop the front of the prop shaft, drop the torque converter cover, then the starter. I put a piece of heat reflective sleeve on the new wire to protect it from the down pipe and manifold above it. You have to find the old wire in the harness behind the engine, or run it up to the relay location. Get B+ power from the power stud, and use one of the power stud mounting screws for the ground.

                  For a Bosch Relay, here's the connections:

                  #87 = To B+ Power stud. (If you want to be really trick, use a 6" piece of #14 fuse link wire for this, and the circuit is protected if the wire burns on the down pipe).
                  #30 = To Starter little terminal. Use at least #12 AWG #10 preferred. Put heat sleeve on this wire in vicinity of the down pipe and manifold.
                  #86 = Old purple wire that comes from key switch. (If this wire is really toasted, open the loom over the brake booster, find the 12 ga purple wire and splice to it there).
                  #85 = Ground. Use the mounting screw for the relay, or one of the mounting screws on the power stud.

                  I'll add some pics over the next few days.

                  DaveP
                  8 / 16 / 2018
                  Thanks Dave! I appreciate it! No rush on it. I didn't realize the fix was so involved, I'll just drive my Ty down there and pay you to do it! hahaha kidding. I'm right in the middle of a coil over install, and I'm gonna need a break before I go tackling another project.

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