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Head Scratcher: Engine Removal with Seized Engine?

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  • Head Scratcher: Engine Removal with Seized Engine?

    I haven't begun this project yet, but it's going to be coming up soon. In a Typhoon, how do you get the torque converter bolts out if the engine is seized solid, and the crankshaft can't be rotated?

    I've only had this situation in an automatic once, it was a 5.4 in an F150 and I was able to easily remove the engine oil pan and cut the offending connecting rod with a sawzall, and then rotate the crank. The pan in a Ty doesn't come off easily, but it will if one raises the body off the frame
    .
    Thanks in Advance for any ideas.

  • #2
    Couldnt you still remove the engine with the TC still attached to the flexplate? Once removed and out, you can then get the pan off, remove the mains, etc so you can rotate and get to the remaining out of reach TC bolts.
    --------------------------------
    SyTy Registry
    InternationalSyTyRegistry.com

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    • #3
      Can you pull the engine and trans as one out of a ty? I know you can't in a sy, not sure about the other.

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      • #4
        I had the same problem on my Trailblazer SS since the #6 rod was sticking through the side of the block when I got it.

        I ended up removing the t-case and trans first, just left the converter bolted to the flexplate, angled the engine back as much as I could and slid the trans back and down slowly as to not jar the input shaft as it came out of the converter.

        Went pretty well actually, of course it was easier on the lift with a transmission jack, but it was certainly easier than trying to pull the engine and trans together.
        Morgan - ISTR Executive Director

        93 Typhoon #0180 || 93 Typhoon #1579 || 92 Typhoon #1068 || 52 Cadillac Series 62 Coupe
        85 Volvo 745 Turbo Diesel || 06 GMC Sierra 3500 4x4 CCLB SRW LBZ SLT || 07 CGMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 CCSB LBZ SLT

        WTB : 93 Typhoon #1682

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        • #5
          The engine and trans does not come out together unless you lift the body off the frame about 3-4". Been there, done that with a 94 Bravada. No amount of tilting gets it in or out. The transmission contacts the top of the tunnel before the pan clears the differential tube I lifted the body off the frame, and it went in.

          I thought about the "leave the converter on the flexplate" method, but I'm not certain the trans will go back 8" without hitting the tunnel. I have the lift, but not the trans jack. I can borrow one though. All I need to work on in this truck is the engine. I'd rather leave the trans, t-case, and drivelines intact. Save myself a bunch of hours if I can figure this out without having to disturb the trans and t-case.

          My first run at this will be to see if I can rotate the engine backwards with my turner-tool on the flex plate. I tried with the damper bolt, and as expected, it just loosened. If no-joy, I'll probably pursue removing the pan and see if I can loosen the mains and crank that way. Pan and everything that has to come off to get the pan off, has to come off anyway. I really wish to avoid a trans R&R if I can. I'm in my mid-60's now, this shit isn't as easy for me as it was 20 years ago when I got my first Ty. Mostly, I'm not as strong. I get fatigued pulling on and lifting shit.

          I appreciate the input.
          Last edited by DaveP; 08-30-2017, 03:01 PM.

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          • #6
            Would pulling the front core support assist in being able to get more clearance for the TC to flexplate or even the entire trans? I would think pulling the core support would be less headache than trying to lift the body.
            --------------------------------
            SyTy Registry
            InternationalSyTyRegistry.com

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            • #7
              The engine must first come up about 6" for the pan to clear over the top of the differential tube. If the engine can't go UP first, it isn't coming out. Period.

              This Ty is squeaky-clean. It's been in videos, and is owned by a clean-is-king dude. I don't want to mess with body lines, cladding, and fender fit, etc by disturbing the core support.

              This project will probably get underway in a couple of weeks. I'll update the thread with what I came up with, had to do to get the torque converter bolts out. Thanks for the interest.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by DaveP View Post
                The engine and trans does not come out together unless you lift the body off the frame about 3-4". Been there, done that with a 94 Bravada. No amount of tilting gets it in or out. The transmission contacts the top of the tunnel before the pan clears the differential tube I lifted the body off the frame, and it went in.

                I thought about the "leave the converter on the flexplate" method, but I'm not certain the trans will go back 8" without hitting the tunnel. I have the lift, but not the trans jack. I can borrow one though. All I need to work on in this truck is the engine. I'd rather leave the trans, t-case, and drivelines intact. Save myself a bunch of hours if I can figure this out without having to disturb the trans and t-case.

                My first run at this will be to see if I can rotate the engine backwards with my turner-tool on the flex plate. I tried with the damper bolt, and as expected, it just loosened. If no-joy, I'll probably pursue removing the pan and see if I can loosen the mains and crank that way. Pan and everything that has to come off to get the pan off, has to come off anyway. I really wish to avoid a trans R&R if I can. I'm in my mid-60's now, this shit isn't as easy for me as it was 20 years ago when I got my first Ty. Mostly, I'm not as strong. I get fatigued pulling on and lifting shit.

                I appreciate the input.
                It's definitely like being stuck between a rock and a hard place.

                One one hand, you know the engine can't go forward with the pan/pump still in place.

                The other hand is you don't want to disturb the drivetrain.

                Unless you figure out a way to gain access to the bolts, something is going to have to give. You're either going to spend a bunch of hours lifting the body, or a bunch of ours removing the driveshafts, t-case and trans.

                I would personally choose the second option as I did on my TBSS.

                Since you already need to work on the engine, I would remove the plenum, distributor, intake and heads, allowing for maximum tilting of the engine down towards the rear so you should have no issues with the trans clearing the trans tunnel and just get the sucker out of there.

                I know you don't exactly want to do that method, but it will work if it comes down to it.

                I am eagerly waiting to see if you do come up with a better method of removal, so please post it up if you do finally come up with something.
                Morgan - ISTR Executive Director

                93 Typhoon #0180 || 93 Typhoon #1579 || 92 Typhoon #1068 || 52 Cadillac Series 62 Coupe
                85 Volvo 745 Turbo Diesel || 06 GMC Sierra 3500 4x4 CCLB SRW LBZ SLT || 07 CGMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 CCSB LBZ SLT

                WTB : 93 Typhoon #1682

                Facebook | Instagram | Twitter | YouTube

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Captain Morgan View Post
                  I am eagerly waiting to see if you do come up with a better method of removal, so please post it up if you do finally come up with something.
                  Thanks Morgan for the follow-up.

                  I'm hoping the engine will turn backwards with the turner-tool on the flex plate, and this discussion becomes academic. If it doesn't, the owner and I will figure out the best approach with the least amount of molestation to his pristine truck . Lifting the body isn't big deal if the bolts aren't rusty, which is seldom a problem in California. I've done it 4 times on various S-series, but only one Typhoon, and never on a Sy. But you have to remove the core support to frame bolts which requires removing the front bumper. And access to lifting points on the body are complicated by the rocker cladding.

                  I'll update when this project gets underway. Not until it cools down though. 98deg out there right now. Too hot for wrenching in the sun.

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                  • #10
                    This project got underway about 6 weeks ago. The Ty has anew owner, and he and I have been installing a used engine from another Ty into it. Turns out this truck is NOT the "all-original 53,00 mile never-dorked-with" Ty it was purported to be. Lots of jankiness, mostly incorrect, wrong, or dorked-up fasteners. The engine has been out at least once before. But I digress...

                    The old engine was locked-up solid. We saw the impressions of TWO connecting rods in the pan. We removed the T-case, jacked up the body off the frame, and were going to try it that way, but I decided to try to pull the trans off the still in place torque converter instead. With the body raised, access was easy, plus I have a 4-post lift. With the body up, the engine removal was a non-issue even with the length of the torque converter still on it.

                    We're into this R&R 6 full days, two of us working on it. There's about a day left to get it running, and most of the loose ends tidied up. The owner has been very patient as he can only work on it weekends, and I've been tied up on a big boat project that has consumed all my weekends for the past month.

                    But it will be completed soon, and another 93 Ty will be back in Daily Driver service. The way it should be.

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                    • #11
                      Glad you were able to remove the engine. You had to go through a lot of work to do so. Thankfully it wasn't as bad as it could have been. Nothing ever goes easily when working on a SyTy.

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