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Ls Swap Single Turbo Build

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  • #16
    Oil filter:

    On mine, I am using a remote oil filter. The milodon above has the oil feed and return in the exact same place that the turbotime pan has. The custom oil pan I'm getting from moroso has no provisions for feed/return - this is done with fittings installed in the block (I think the rpm pan is like this). I really didn't like the location of the feed/return being so freaking close to the diff.

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    • #17
      Rear suspension setup - this is what I stayed with - caltracs and leafs. Ended up getting afcos from MADMAN for the rear.

      7/30/2014

      With the success of some of these leaf spring drag radial cars I am going to try to run leafs at first with caltracs. If it doesn't work I'll prob do a four link or ladder bar setup.

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      • #18
        8/9/2014: this pissed me off

        Good and bad day today - got engine but the one header primary on the passenger side will have to be remade due to the fact the heads I used for mock up were 4 bolt and the heads on my actual engine are 6 bolt (only a four bolt block tho - got the 6 bolt heads in case I wanted to do an lsx block in future). The primary in question hits one of the "tabs" for the 6 bolt heads. Very very frustrating.

        Hope to have engine in and primary tube fixed soon.

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        • #19
          8/31/2014:

          More progress

          Installed oil return fitting on the timing cover. -12 lines to hopefully limit restrictions.

          Transfer case and everything is bolted in. Had to tweak a few things before final bolting the headers up. I also found a small issue w my crossover pipe but that will be fixed hopefully next weekend.

          Cleaned up the accessory brackets as well.

          Goal is to have it ready to hit the body shop in two weeks for some work on the inside of the fenders (just a scuff to get rid of some minor rust and crud and then shoot them) and to fit,notch, and paint the hood.

          It's finally starting to look like a truck again....I have lots of time invested in this project but it's been fun and I've learned a ton. It will go to be wired and plumbed in October by a guy that does a bunch of racecars in the area - he does great work and to be honest I have spent so much time on it that I'm ready for a break.

          I'm tossing around ideas for wheels. I really, really want to do a black corvette grand sport setup like you see on a lot of our trucks, but I'm very concerned about dofferences in tire diameter between front and rear, as well as the proximity of this huge turbo to the front tire. There is enough clearence now but I think the GS wheels are an inch wider (thus moving them in an inch). Does anybody have any recommendations for a drag radial setup with the GS wheels that has proven to be very close in diameter?

          For the track in the future I plan on using stock polished wheels and 4 slicks of the same size or 4 drag radials.

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          • #20
            9/7/2014 ended up not painting the cladding just had it fixed

            Truck is going to paint next weekend. Hood will be notched for the intake and a small amount for the turbo...a GT5594 is huge and I had to compromise tire clearance and hood clearance. The cladding on the drivers side is broken at the mounting points so that will get fixed as well. Firewall and inside of fenders will be touched up.

            It's starting to look like a truck again....
            Debating on whether or not to just paint the cladding on it. We aren't going to paint the exterior other than the hood (and possibly the cladding) as the original paint is pretty good on this truck.

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            • #21
              9/8/2014 this is why I like the moroso pan - old pressure is good on 1.3 60 ft and good through the 1/8

              It should be between 6 and 6.5 qts to fill both pan and filter.

              The pain rail is very thick on this pan. I really like the way they built it.

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              • #22
                10/5/2014: just call sportmachines

                Posted in lounge but I'll ask here too:

                For the guys with 4L80 transmissions, what cable bracket and lever did you guys use for your stock shifter cable?

                Thanks in advance

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                • #23
                  10/12/2014

                  Well, getting closer. It's heading next weekend out to be wired and plumbed which is a good thing as this project has been a fairly big one (I am tired of working on it lol). Finished some odds and ends on it - welded a sch 40 45 degree aluminum pipe on the t stat cover to get is away from the crossover tube and point it to the radiator and put most of the interior in it except carpet to have things routed. Changed my fueling system idea - was going to run an aeromotive eliminator pump but switching to a Weldon 2025 with a step down box. Toyed with the idea of running e85, but this truck will probably be running pump/c16 with methanol injection. I also need to mock up the trans crossmember/driveshaft loop before it goes out next weekend.

                  When it gets back, I will have to get the new rear in it and install spring perches. Went with a 35 spline 12 bolt from moser with a spool. Other odds and ends need to be taken care of as well, but I'll worry about them when it all gets back. Looking forward to tuning it with the new holley dominator system...I have never used it before and have never tuned much anything with an electronically controlled transmission. Should be interesting!

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                  • #24
                    11/27/14
                    Little update - truck should be back from wiring/plumbing in couple of weeks. From there it's all the little odds and ends line hooking up the hydro boost, running water lines for intercooler, dipsticks for engine and transmission, etc. also need to have driveshafts made for both front and rear. Also need to weld on spring perches on the 12 bolt before it goes in.

                    11/27/2014
                    Also need a little clarification on the shifter cable setup. The stock pan bracket does not work. Has anybody used a 4l80 pan bracket, stock cable, and a 4l80 shifter arm? Thanks

                    12/20/2014 - the whole cage comment turned out to be false lol

                    Yes most likely but not after I get it running and have some fun with it. There are going to be lots of bugs to work out this year with the truck as there are a lot of variables with this platform. You figure most ls builds on other platforms can be difficult, but these trucks bring in a ton of other potential issues with transfer case and front diff among other things. I have built several cars in my lifetime but this has been the most challenging as you are trying to fit so much stuff into a rather confined space.

                    The plan is to start making power, be able to get it up on the brake, be able to daily it once in a while, and then cage it. It's going to be a project as I still need to buy a bender and a notcher..... And then the only way I see to do it right will be to bend and fit everything tight near the headliner and then literally cut the roof off to finish welding the cage and reinstall. I could send this out to be done but I've never done a full cage before (other than using a kit) so I want to tackle it. Unless there is a very well fitting pre bent cage out there I don't see much other option.

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                    • #25
                      12/28/2014 bad day

                      Frustrating day. I have the wrong front cover in the engine - the block has changed from the original ls style looks like and it uses the ls2 cam sensor. Pulled everything off to get to front cover and waiting on a new one so I can weld a turbo drain to it and reinstall.

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                      • #26
                        12/15/2014

                        Made up radiator hoses from aluminum and rubber bends from speedway. Fans and shroud installed - griffin radiators made a shroud which fit perfectly. I will say this project is starting to wear on me - things like making oil lines from the block to the filter - which should be easy - become major issues. Ended up welding up my own fitting from different parts to make all that work after a lot of trial and error. I really wanted to use -10 feed and return lines to the block which made it more difficult.

                        Lokar throttle cable and trans dipstick tube mounted up. The Lokar stuff works nicely all I had to do was make a throttle cable bracket for the high ram intake. Crossmember/driveshaft loop is painted and installed. Trans lines and cooler all finished up. There is a ton more I've done - I keep crossing things off the list which is a good feeling.

                        I am starting to see some signs of light at the end of the tunnel. Weldon pump bracket is made and mounted to frame with rubber insulators and most all fuel lines run. Going to use 120 lb/hr holley injectors I think. I have the 12 bolt sitting in a box next to the truck but will probably get it running with the stock rear and then make the swap.

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                        • #27
                          4/18/2015
                          http://www.drdrivelineinc.com/
                          my source for front propshaft

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                          • #28
                            5/8/2015: If you have a tci flexplate be sure you don't make the same mistake I did. Also, we used the main stainless lines from sportmachines and did the rest in napa stuff - it took a while to make it all look right



                            Bed news need to pull trans - I overlooked something and didn't install pilot extension on tci converter (99 percent sure it didn't come in box but who knows). Very frustrated.

                            Edit - it's fixed. Was able to just slide the trans back about 4 inches and install the pilot extension into the crank. If anybody uses a Tci flexplate with an ls swap 4l80 - make certain you have this pilot extension!

                            My buddy is going to bend up some brake lines for me, need to fix the hydroboost system, install shifter stuff, install propshaft and have a rear driveshaft made up......

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                            • #29
                              5/16/2015: make sure you set your hydroboost pedal rod correctly and don't do what I did and have to do it twice. I also had a terrible time with hydroboost lines. I ended up going to a truck shop to have them made

                              Hydroboost lines no longer leak (for now haha - this was a very, very long ordeal). Found parts I needed for the hydroboost and all seems to work. I miscalculated the pedal rod length (I made it too long) so need to work on a fix for that.

                              Closer...

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                              • #30
                                5/17/2015 weighed the truck

                                3530 w me in it before 12 bolt and 5 gal water tank....

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