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93 ty 0935

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  • 93 ty 0935

    On Sept 28 2015 I picked up 93 TY 0935 in Abilene TX, at the time I was told the motor had been rebuilt and just needed finishing up the installation. Some of the cladding was damaged on the drivers side rear to kick panels. Needless to say it needed some work, a lot of cleaning, and TLC I figured it would make a good project for the most part everything seemed salvagable.

    I started off by tearing the "rebuilt" motor down and after finding used bearings decided to send the block to the machine shop, of course they measure it and recommended bore it .030 over decking the surface and line boring the the mains and turning the crank 10/10 plus forged pistons. This project got off track from the beginning, looking back I wish I would've put eagle rods in to it at this point but at the time was tying to stick to something of a budget. I built the motor with probe forged pistons stock rods and crank 412 comp cam decided to go with L35 heads with screw in rockers used comp cams self aligning roller tip rockers hardened push rods Alex's springs and retainers re-used the ARP head studs and other hardware that came with the motor.

    My goal was to keep it close to stock and reliable as possible, as I plan to drive it on weekends to shows and car runs and the such. I also added a Fluidampr harmonic balancer powder coating many parts and ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds and crossover pipe. Rebuilt the whole front suspension upper and lower control arm bushings upper and lower ball joint new cv axels Eric Tinns posi front axel. I also decided to add a 3k stall converter deeper trans pan and cooler while the motor is out right? Solid motor mounts Jeep steering shaft all the typical upgrades.

    I removed the rear leveling system along with the wiring as it was not being used any more and ran my Hot wire kit for the 255 Walbro fuel pump in place of that wiring. I cleaned the entire frame and repainted everything. I also removed the rear axel and springs and replaced them with Beltec lowering springs painted the shocks and rear cover to match all the other red. I ran new brake lines to the Camaro rear disc set up. I still need to figure out the parking brakes? I also installed the Sportmachine lower dual pass water to air cooler and johnson pump. I have a 20G turbo thats been ported and balanced ceramic coated to match everything else with the Forge waste gate. I will be running a Turbo Tweak chip 60# injectors Glo shift wideband and gauges. I relocated the ECM to the glove box for easy access.

    After 2 years working on this thing every weekend it is finally time to drop the motor back in to place get everything wired/ hooked up. Hopefully get it running by the end of summer 2017 if I dont take a 2nd part time job first LOL I will keep adding more pics and listing more parts I've used as I think of them.

    I hope it will always be this clean under here but you know how that goes The day I got it home The pile of parts that came with it

  • #2


    • #3
      That engine bay looks sweet man!


      • #4
        Thanks Graham1524 I wanted to do something a little different and this is what I ended up with I think it works out well I really didn’t like all the black.


        • #5
          I finished up all the small items and finally started it up in Nov 2017 except for a few correctable issues everything seemed good except for a coolant leak from the pass side dripping off the front axle. I thought it was the turbo coolant return where it feeds back in to the block cuz it was dripping off of there. I pulled the stainless steel braided line I made off and found the fitting end was damaged, I thought that had to be it and replaced it. It turns out that was not it, so my next thought was the freeze plug behind the motor mount must be leaking? Knowing that would require pulling the motor again, I wanted to be sure it wasn't anything else (also lost the desire to work on it for a while and got busy with life) so I pulled the exhaust manifold off to get a look at the head and gasket (I really was not looking forward to pulling the motor back out again so soon) and boy am I glad I did because I found 2 of the ARP head studs leaking right above the freeze plug. A bit of searching and I found out that this is a fairly common issue. To be thorough decided to check all the head bolts meaning removing both exhaust manifolds and valve covers. The only good part is at least every thing I have to pull apart is nice and clean and new I guess. I ended up finding a total of 3 leaking ARP head studs 2 external on the pass side head and 1 internal on the drivers side head. I made the decision to remove all the head studs 1 by 1 and reseal them all hopefully preventing any farther issues I hope! I refilled the cooling system and pressure tested it and do not see any leaks now I just have to re-assemble everything.


          • #6
            Great stuff, NM_TY_Guy. Good luck pulling all that apart. It shouldn't be too hard if all the parts are new, but it might get annoying.


            • #7
              It really wasn't too bad I am a little annoyed by the paint chips no matter how careful I was but ohh well what can you do I also took the time to wrap the down pipe as the ceramic coating didn't help with the heat as much as i was hoping it would also decided to paint the ac box to match the firewall eliminating even more black from under the hood. I also replaced the pass side window that was scratched removed the purple tint from the drivers side window and replaced all the rubber for the side windows.

              Next is some cladding repairs and removing the dash to replace the ac ducts a previous owner cut to install a radio.
              Last edited by NM_TY_Guy; 07-25-2018, 01:15 PM.